Lawnmower Clinic - Latest News
We would like to sell more lawnmowers and machinery, so with a help from Ed Perratore and Consumer Reports' mowing expert Peter Sawchuk, we decided to advise you on how to kill your lawnmower.
Consider your mower’s fuel tank the perfect place to store old gasoline. Even without additives, stabilized gasoline will eventually gum up, clog fuel lines, and ruin your carburetor. And gas containing ethanol ages even more quickly. “It’s not so much the ethanol but that it absorbs a lot of water,” says Kris Kiser, president and CEO of the Outdoor Power Equipment Institute, a trade group. “Water in the engine is a killer.”
Smart move: At the end of the season or when not using for long periods of time, take 10 minutes to drain the tank or run the engine dry.
Never change or add oil. Moving metal parts need oil, and an engine that’s denied clean oil, and enough of it, will overheat for sure.
Smart move: The best time to do change the oil in a walk-behind mower is when it’s drained of gas—since you’ll need to flip the mower to remove the old oil.
The blades still turn, so forget about sharpening them. Ideally, you should sharpen your mower’s blades monthly—and even more often in the fall if you mulch leaves using your mower. This keeps the engine from working harder and less efficiently than it needs to, which affects its lifespan. But if you indeed forget, the brown-tipped grass will remind you before it dies altogether.
Smart move: You’ll need: A piece of 2x4 to wedge in the blade to keep it from turning as you remove it. Alternatively you can replace the blade, or visit us for advice.
Leave in your original air filter year after year. An engine’s carburetor needs to mix the gasoline with filtered air for smooth running, but the bigger hazard in not cleaning or replacing the filter annually is that a dirty or torn filter can allow dirt into the engine, which will accelerate wear and shorten its life.
Smart move: A filter is not expensive and takes 30 seconds to replace.
Ignore the engine’s cooling fins, even if they’re clogged with clippings. The cooling fins help distribute heat from the engine, which matters most on hot days. Let grass clippings and dust accumulate on them, and the engine could overheat.
Smart move: Running a whisk broom back and forth over the fins for a few seconds.
Don’t check the lawn for stationary hazards before mowing. Even if you know the location of every metal stake, sprinkler head, or tree stump, you could come upon a thick branch or jutting rock suddenly and hit it with the mower. Doing this with a walk-behind mower can bend the crankshaft. “If you bend the shaft, typically because of the price point of the product, it’s dead," says Kiser. “You’re just not going to get it repaired.”
Smart move: Take short walk and make a visual inspection before you mow.
There’s a seventh way to kill your mower as shown by Milwaukee homeowner Keith Walendowski when he took his shotgun to his lawnmower a few years ago. But technically the mower was already gone—or at least needed a little TLC.
We do have a large workshop of course, and do repairs on machinery. If you would like to keep your mower alive(if still possible), please visit us.
Article based on a consumerreports.org article by Ed Perratore.
There are two types of fertilizer spreaders, broadcast and drop. Spreaders are used to fertilize, seed and even for melting ice(not that we’ll need that in Pretoria!). Choose tow or push models that get the job done; solid construction and reliable design ensure even and continuous flow and spread of materials, eliminating “streaks.”
Broadcast spreaders (also called rotary spreaders) cover a lot of square meters quickly. The material drops from the hopper onto a spinning disc that disperses it over the lawn. Overlap the coverage to avoid missing any spots – the further away from the spreader the material is thrown, the lighter the coverage. What you gain in coverage you may sacrifice in control. That same spinning disc can also scatter the material into a neighbor's yard or into the street. If you want complete control, think about getting a drop spreader.
Drop spreaders can easily cover straight lines with little waste, but they must be used with care. Since the material drops straight down in a width equal to that of the hopper, striping can occur if the entire area is not covered equally. Striping is the distinctive pattern created when you miss or overlap rows.
Both types are also available as attachments to ride-on mowers and ATV’s. We also have tractor mounted options.
We now have Tandem Lawnmowers available with the new Robin Subaru EA175V engine!
Subaru's new EA175V engine is the first to offer chain-driven overhead cam (OHC) technology to the small, air-cooled, vertical shaft engine market. Featuring an innovative and completely original design, the engines are built lightweight, yet rugged and powerful enough for demanding applications such as; lawn mower and garden applications including pressure washers, walk behind string trimmers, aerators and lawn vacs to name a few. By incorporating industry-leading technology and numerous advanced features, the vertical shaft engines offer superior power and reliability to competitive engines.
The engine is available on the heavy duty Tandem Ratel and Tandem Super 52 chassis.
- Forged Crankshaft
- Cast Iron Cylinder Liner
- Overhead Cam Chain Drive Technology
- High Efficient Hemispherical Combustion Chamber
- High Compression Ratio for Higher Power and Torque
- Large Recoil for greater pulling leverage
- Optimized Cooling Fins and Air Circulation for long engine life
- Ball Bearing Supported Crankshaft
- Low Tone Muffler
- Dual Lobe Camshaft for easier starts
A Brushcutter is one of the most versatile grass cutting machines. They are sometimes called grass trimmers, bush cutters or clearing saws. Not to be confused with a trimmer(which has a bent shaft and is used for cutting edges), brushcutters can be used to trim edges, bushes, around fences or flowerbeds, to cut through tough uncontrolled growth, or large awkward areas including embankments, along verges or uneven terrain, and even for gnarling bushes, cutting thorny bushes and sawing thin tree trunks.
It is important to purchase the correct machine for your application. Compare kilowatt(size) of the various options, as well as reliability of back up service, spares availability, and manufacturer's support.
There is a good way to tell higher quality units from less expensive models. Higher quality brushcutters have the starter cord behind the engine. Less expensive unites locate the cord between the motor and the shaft. This is due to crankshaft design alternatives. Single counterweight shafts are less expensive to make, vibrate more, and require locating the starter cord at the front of the engine. Double counterweight shafts cost more, are better balanced, and allow the starter cord to be located at the back of the engine. Manufacturers who have gone to the expense of equipping their machines with double counterweight crankshafts will likely have engineered other design features into the unit to make it more durable and useful - something to keep in mind as you consider the price difference.
The two most important decisions are the size brushcutter you need, and the type of cutting attachment you use.
You don't need to purchase the strongest machine available to do the job. When a manufacturer has a range of products available, it doesn't necessarily imply that the brand "has a machine available for every wallet size". Well, if it is the reason, stay well clear of that specific product. A Good range is ussually one which offers products for different applications. Are you a garden service and need to trim edges daily? Do you want to cut tall grass daily? Are you clearing a large area of uncontrolled growth? Do you need to cut away thorny bushes? We have units available for all the different scenarios!
So, largest isn't always the best. Size matters when it comes to what your application is, and when you are going to cut edges at in eight garden five days a week, you won't need a 2.4kW monster.
With most good quality brushcutters you can decide between various nylon line cutting heads, grass cutting blades, brush knifes and circular saw blades. Each type of cutting attachment has a different application. Discuss the options with your Grassnyer Kliniek/Lawnmower Clinic Pretoria sales consultant. Make sure your unit can accept the attachments needed to get the job done. Some of the smaller units will only accept a limited number of accessories. Please make certain that the correct, approved guard for the cutting attachment is installed.It is usually recommended to purchase both a nylon cutting head and brush blade. Why?
A nylon head provides a larger cutting swath than a blade (which means you get your cutting done quicker). Nylon line is also capable of clearing weeds between logs and rock. If the line hits a hard object, it bounces off. This is not true of a tri-cut/brush blade. The tri-cut blade attachment has a smaller cutting swath. Since the blade is made from steel, when it hits something hard, the entire cutting end of the bruchcutter bounces off the object. Further, regularly hitting rocks can cause the blade to dull quickly, which means some annoying resharpening in the field. With a string head, you just pull out some new line and you're ready to go. Having both a string head and brush blade allows you to cover all the bases.
As with any petrol powered clearing equipment, protective equipment is an absolute necessity. For brushcutters, there are two safety items you shouldn't go without:
- A protective helmet with integrated sound deadening headphones, and a screen pull-down shield on the front. Do NOT operate a brushcutter without one of these helmets.
- Shin guards. Guards are typically manufactured high impact plastic, and cover the front part of the lower leg. We also offer Brushcutter Safety Pants.
Contact us for information regarding the correct brushcutter for your application.
We have a large variety of different models chainsaw available. Chainsaws are most commonly used in logging activities such as felling, delimbing and bucking. They are also used by tree surgeons to fell trees and remove branches and foliage. Other applications include cutting firebreaks, rescue operations by fire brigade, and the harvesting of firewood.
Chainsaws consist of a power unit, petrol or electric, a guide bar, and the cutting chain.
There are various types of chainsaws available for different applications. Your options will include arborist, hobby, semi-professional and professional models. Lengths of the guide bar and chain varies, as well as the size of chain. The top brands include more safety features and operator protection.
Chainsaws can be dangerous, and serious injuries can arise from incorrect use. Protective clothing should always be worn while operating them. Chains must be kept sharp to perform well, this can be done with a round file or your dealer can sharpen the chain for you.
Chainsaws are specialist equipment, and should be purchased from specialists. Advice on the correct model for your application, as well as advice on the safe operation should be given obtained when purchasing.
Another useful tool to have around is an axe. The axe is an ancient tool used to shape, split and cut wood. Most modern axes have steel heads and wooden or fiberglass handles. Modern axes are specialized by use, size and form.
Hatchets are lightweight axes with a short handle which makes them easy to carry around. They are also suitable for indoor use for example as a kitchen axe. The heads are thin head and the back of head can also be used as a hammer for lighter work.
Hand axes are slightly longer than hatchets and ideal for trimming trees and other general purpose work. The head is equipped with a thin blade and, together with the longer handle, provides a longer swing and a deeper cut than a hatchet.
Felling axes are heavier axes with longer handles and a thinner edge, to cut easily into the wood when felling trees.
Splitting axes have a special wedge-shaped head, and with it’s weight, provides easier penetration when forcing the wood apart. Mauls are heavy sledge hammers which are used to drive poles or, together with a splitting wedge, to split very hard and thick wood.
Contact a Grassnyer Kliniek/Lawnmower Clinic Sales representative for information on the correct chainsaw for your specific application.